So we have all heard of Goa’s party spots and we have all heard of its ancient churches. We know Goa seafood is delicious, alcohol is cheap and plentiful, South Goa abounds with expensive resorts, and Panjim ferry trips are fun. If you think about it, Goa is the ultimate travel destination, written about to death, exhausted beyond boredom.
Think again. Look past the crowds in Baga and Calangute to peek inside. Once you get to the place where the buzz of two-wheelers dies off, look around. You’ll see beautiful low hills on the horizon, rice paddies sprawling in expanses of green, and backdrops studded with coconut trees.
Panjim, the capital, is often ignored by vacationers, or used only to get in touch with the state. Much administrative work continues in Panjim and it is louder, more polluted, less interesting than the rest of the state. But head deep into the Fontainhas, Panjim’s old quarter, and you’ll see quaint Portuguese bungalows with colorfully painted columns. The magnificent chapels here have windows decorated with marigold flowers and some have clay lamps lit outside in an intriguing mix of cultures and religious practices.
January 31 Road is one of those places. Flanked by neoclassical bungalows in shades of butter yellow, dull blue, and faded olive on one side, and Pato Creek on the other, the cobbled streets of this area are more reminiscent of a European village than an Indian capital. The area is full of alternative art galleries and heritage hotels, places that preserve their antique furniture and architecture to provide a window into a past that once was.
Portuguese was the official language of Goa until the 1960s. This is still evident in the picturesque nameplates hanging outside these bungalows, delicately carved from wood, written in richly flourish letters. Drive along the main Panjim road that passes by Miramar beach and stop for lunch at ‘Mama’s Kitchen’, a restaurant totally dedicated to preserving the original Goan recipes, homemade food, with ingredients ranging from vinegar to palm wine, dried beef and peppercorns.
Go further south to discover the hidden side of Goa. Here, small streams cross the roads to meet the sea. There are places where vegetation hides sunlight and forms canopies for you to drive under, where tiny villages have rural lifestyles untouched by the tourist commercialization the state has been witnessing. Everywhere there are small bodies of water with lotuses and water lilies. These places in Goa have an excess of green.
The vegetation opens up to white sands and a blue, blue sea. Avoid the beaches suitable for tour buses and head towards the secluded beaches. Betalbatim, Utorda, Bogmalo and Velsao are spectacular and spotlessly clean. Free from street vendors, some of these beaches are dotted with small shacks serving spicy vindaloo and Manchurian gobhi with beer, made from barley or the variety of fruits. Just choose your option.
If you are visiting Goa for the first time, get a Calangute massage by all means. Buy trinkets from the vendors at Baga and go shake a leg at Tito’s. But don’t forget to look further to discover these hidden spots in this beautiful, laid-back state.
