Aix en Provence is often known as “the city of Cézanne”. It is difficult to miss the emblems of the “Steps of Cézanne” on the sidewalks of Aix; These symbols take tourists to some of the sites most famous for Cézanne’s artistic inspiration. The problem with watching your feet to follow the little emblems is that you can lose some of the views along the way. We could fill a book and several photo albums to really describe this city. Aix en Provence has a long history (founded in 123 BC) as a center built on hot springs or “thermal baths”. Aix is a student, tourist city and the official center of the thirteenth department of France.
The interesting thing is that it was not “love at first sight” for me. The city is frankly a bit scruffy and it can take a bit of time to get to your skin. The famous boulevard Cours MirabeauAlthough wooded and shady, it is also home to a mix of highly touristy restaurants, banks, and uninteresting retail stores. The old townold Town) is a maze of busy little streets, brimming with retail stores, restaurants, breweries, and bakeries. It took a few weeks of walking the streets to get his bearings properly. We had several tries and many failures with restaurant meals, before sorting through the best options available. The markets are tempting, however I warn “buyer beware” as there are some very expensive vendors in the market who may identify a dumb tourist, it may take a while to identify the usual and reliable vendors.
Now that we are about to leave Aix-en-Provence, we feel quite sorry. We have had great experiences and we would like to share some of your favorites for your next visit:
Bakery: This is tough in France because there are so many good ones. My favorite is Farinoman Fou, their bread is rustic and unique. Their unique breads include a couple of standouts, Maître Goji (goji berries and raisins) and Choco Souris (chocolate smile).
Coffee: My opinion is that French coffee is good if you order espresso, but marginal if you order something with milk like a “grande creme” (coffee with milk). It is very likely that you will get a weak and warm drink. We found two places that were consistent, La Brulerie and Italy Coffee Shop.
Creperie: Without a doubt, the crepes made by Delphine at Crêpes Cidres and Companie are the best in town. Delphine is originally from Brittany and insists on using authentic Breton ingredients (this is not always easy in Provence). Their pancakes are hot and made to order. The espresso is consistent and specialty treats like their mini Madeleine cookies are delicious. If that’s not enough, she is lovely. Stop !!
Doors: The best thing about exploring a city like Aix with so much history is the ability to revel in the ancient architecture and wonder what lies behind the endless beautiful gates.
Sources: As mentioned above, the city was built on hot springs and the main streets have several beautiful fountains as a nod to that history.
Ice cream: My husband tried all the obvious locations and definitely Amorino at the end of the Cours Mirabeau It is his favorite, it is worth every euro. Their chocolate is also noteworthy, it is expensive and exquisite.
Market: Aix-en-Provence is fantastic as there is a market every day. The local market at Place de Richelme is the one that attracted and we found our trusted vendors, who work very hard, long hours.
Restaurants: As mentioned above, Aix is many things but above all a student and tourist city. This is not necessarily a good match for decent restaurant options. Food establishments are certainly not lacking, but most of us would not recommend them. We are confident in recommending the following:
- Le Millefeuille (nice little decor and a menu that changes daily)
- L’Epicurien Restaurant (7-10 tables, menu changes weekly) – Divine
- La Cave d-Yves (small wine bar, small tapas menu, lots of wine and a sommelier who really knows what he’s doing)
- Carton Rouge (really small, this place makes Yves look spacious, very tasty food, daily menu, cooked to order) – Make a reservation
- Tapas Cafe (in Place des Augustins, doesn’t look like much outside, but the food is authentic Spanish tapas and we liked the mojitos)
- Poivre d’Ane (bright and small, they offer two prix fixe menus) – excellent service, reservations are a must
Cezanne route: Easily accessible from the city center, this country road to Mont St Victore and vineyards is a must see. It is lovely for a short bike ride or a longer trip.
Special events:
- The Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur for the Scandinavian Christmas concert in honor of Saint Lucia
- Ordre de Malte Church of St. John of Malta Concert “Chœurs au Diapason” – 10 euros for a “Coronation program and opera arias”
- The muse granet
In the end, there is a lot to love about Aix en Provence. My advice is to book your trip and find some of your favorites.
