The four boys had caught and released more than 150 smallmouth bass on a three-day floating trip on the John Day River. On the last day, we kept 15 who would probably have died if we released them. That was enough for a dead-end meeting, as my wife and I pitched our Oregon neighbors the idea of a fish fry.
In many parts of the country, a fish fry is the conclusion to a successful day of angling. It could be a social gathering when people bring fish and a quart of iced tea. Really, it’s just an excuse for a summer party. With fried fish as the main course, side dishes are usually made with whatever summer vegetables are in season.
In the South, hush puppies, a type of fried cornbread, and coleslaw are pretty much a must.
But this custom has yet to catch on where I live in Oregon, and may be related to the philosophy of catch and release fishing.
In central Oregon, there are several prolific fish species that are not in danger of being overfished. Always check regulations, but in some lakes or rivers, there are no catch limits for crappie, largemouth bass, and bluegill. In other areas, catfish have been stocked to provide opportunities for sport fishing and good eating. In these cases, wild fish can be eaten without guilt, and there is no easier way to enjoy your catch and feed a lot of people than with a fish fry.
This is how you do it:
Lean fish works best for frying. The general rule of thumb is that white meat fish is lean, while dark or pink meat is oily. Good candidates for a fish fry include sea bass, crappie, catfish, walleye, or bluegill. Large, oily fish like salmon or trout are not the best choice for frying, because the end result will tend to be greasy and doughy.
It’s possible to fry clean, whole fish, but then you have to deal with the bones at dinner. The best method is to fillet the largest fish. Once the steak is clean and skinless, cut it into pieces about 1 to 2 inches wide and no more than 1½ inches thick.
Dip the fillet in a mixture of milk and egg, then pass it through a mixture of flour or cornmeal. If you’re using a batter, all you have to do is dip the fillet in.
I use a cast iron dutch oven on an outdoor propane stove for frying. This carries heat, odor, and any oil splashes to the outside. The trick to frying fish is to have very hot oil: 375 to 400 degrees. This is the point where the vegetable oil bubbles if a small amount of batter is added. Use a candy thermometer to ensure the correct temperature.
Vegetable oils for frying must have a high flash point. Corn, canola, peanuts, cottonseed, or safflower are popular because they don’t change the flavor of the fish.
Usually when fish becomes oily, it’s because the oil cooled too quickly. Start with about 400 degrees, then when the cold fish touches the hot oil, the breading will form a tasty golden crust. The fish will chill the oil when it goes into the fryer, so keep an eye on the thermometer to maintain a consistent heat.
Try a piece when the batch is ready. Rarely cooked fish is clear and watery and does not flake easily with a fork; overdone fish is dry and tough when tasted. The perfect fish is opaque and moist and flakes easily. You will achieve this perfect state if you cook the fish for 3-5 minutes or until it floats and is golden brown. Don’t crowd the fish, or the oil will get too cold.
If cooking multiple batches of fish, allow the oil to reheat to at least 375 degrees before adding the fish.
If the fish and batter are cold and the oil is hot, the coating will seal immediately. Cooked fish will be moist and flaky on the inside, crisp and golden on the outside. Drain cooked fish on a baking sheet lined with a paper bag.
Serve the fish hot, fresh from the oil, with garnishes. Then sit back, enjoy, and be thankful for the good food and camaraderie that time spent outdoors can bring.
Here are some recipes to help you get started:
beer dough
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon paprika
pinch of nutmeg
1 cup of beer
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
In a medium bowl, mix the dry ingredients. Blend beer and vegetable oil until smooth. Dip the fish in the batter and fry.
Breaded Basic Flour
1 egg
1 tablespoon of milk or water
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
Blend the egg and milk. Mix flour, salt and pepper. Dip fish in egg mixture, then in flour mixture. fry
Corn Flour Breaded
1 egg
1 tablespoon of milk or water
1 cup finely ground cornmeal
3 tablespoons Italian-flavored breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon of flour
Salt, pepper, paprika, Old Bay seasoning, or Cajun seasoning to taste
Blend the egg and milk. Mix cornmeal, breadcrumbs, flour and seasonings. Dip fish in egg mixture, then in flour mixture. fry
george hush puppies
Hush puppies are the traditional southern side dish to accompany fried fish. (This recipe was invented by my friend, the late George Halford, one night before a fish fry in the Washington, DC area.)
2 cups of cornmeal
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 eggs
1/4 cup battered canola oil
1/4 cup honey
5 green onions, finely chopped
1 cup buttermilk
4 teaspoons baking powder
pinch of garlic salt
In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, egg, cornmeal, garlic salt, honey, green onions, and buttermilk, stir well with a spoon. Add the baking powder. Heat oil to 400 degrees in a large dutch oven. Drop the batter by spoonfuls into hot oil and fry until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels.
Fried Sweet Corn
6 ears of fresh white sweet corn (yellow sweet corn can be used, but it won’t be as tasty)
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Husk and clean the corn. Using a very sharp knife, cut off the corn tips in a baking dish. Then use the back of the knife to scrape and milk the cob, letting the juices run into the pan. Pour the corn into a large bowl and add salt and pepper to taste. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add the butter. When the butter melts, put the corn and juices in the pan. Cook over medium heat for about 20 minutes until corn is soft, creamy, and hot.
