Legend has it that Julius Caesar brought the first wine grapes to the UK. But while it’s clear that the Romans brought grapes to the region, it’s less clear if native grape vines already existed. The Romans may have brought their own grape varieties due to a taste preference, or simply to remind them of home, but either way, theirs is the oldest known production of wine in the UK.
The Romans had to bring their own grapes to remote outposts of the Empire. As the Empire grew, it became increasingly difficult for supply trains to travel, sometimes through hostile territory, to the most remote Roman settlements. So those who settled in the UK needed to grow their own grapes if they wanted wine on a regular basis.
When the Romans finally left, winemaking stuck. The Venerable Bede mentioned vineyards in his Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation, written in 731. A few hundred years later, in 1085, the Domesday Book showed thirty-eight vineyards in existence.
Many wineries during the Middle Ages were located in monasteries. This may be because wine was an integral part of the Catholic ceremony. However, wine was not just a religious drink. In the medieval era, it was a common social drink for all classes, particularly in southern England, and it was common for the wealthy to have their own vineyards.
By 1491, there were around 139 large vineyards in England. Many of these were owned by the church, but a significant number were owned by the crown and various noble families. It is clear that by this time wine was firmly established in England.
However, production was declining during this time and continued through the centuries. Historians aren’t entirely sure why. Some believe it may be related to the Little Ice Age, a period of severe cold weather experienced in Western Europe. The plague, political turmoil, and competition from continental winemakers may also have contributed.
Whatever the reason, wine production in England fell into decline, and commercial winemaking in the region was easily eclipsed by wines produced on the Continent for the next several hundred years.
However, there is evidence that various nobles attempted to grow grapes and make wine during the 17th to 19th centuries. In the late 19th century, the Marquess of Bute established a commercial-scale vineyard in South Wales. Wine was made there until World War I. However, during the period between World War I and World War II, commercial wine production in the UK came to a near standstill.
Ray Barrington Brock, a research chemist with an interest in gardening, is often credited as the man who brought winemaking back to the UK. Not long after World War II, he became interested in grape growing and set out to introduce grape varieties especially suited to the climate of England.
Another pioneer in contemporary English winemaking is Edward Hymans, a gardener and writer who planted his own vineyard as part of his research for a book on growing wine grapes in the UK.
These two helped reintroduce grape growing to the UK, but did not develop their own commercial wineries. However, they did inspire Major General Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones to set one up in 1952. His was the first commercial winery to be established in the UK since before the First World War.
Since then hundreds of wineries have been established in the UK. However, the industry still faces some challenges. The climate is still not ideal for growing grapes, and winemakers must have a solid scientific understanding of soil composition, grape varieties, and harvesting techniques to stay in business. High prices and VAT rates send many customers to France, where wine can be bought cheaper. And the labeling of many cheap, low-quality wines made from concentrates as “British” hasn’t helped the industry’s reputation.
However, UK wines are beginning to make their mark in international circles. In 2007, the judges of the International Wine Challenge awarded a gold medal to an English wine for the first time.
Due to the limits imposed by the weather, the UK wine industry may never be as prolific as those of France, Italy and Australia. But while the UK may never be known for the amount of wine it produces, it may become famous for its quality.
